Every man should periodically make an intense sojourn.  The destination matters less than the journey itself, for it is the act of discovery that soothes the turbulent soul.  I recently returned from a 10-day trip to Europe, during which I visited Amsterdam, Italy, Spain, and Portugal.  I wanted to summarize my impressions here.  You have heard and read, no doubt, an endless number of travel accounts by countless authors.  Much of what I say may already be known to you.  But there is still some value, I think, in hearing these things from a voice with a different inflection.   

Gear and Logistics

This was to be an intense trip.  It was not a relaxing vacation.  Nearly every hour of every day, for ten days, was occupied in either movement or intense observation at cultural sites.  It was necessary to pack lightly—and when I say lightly, I mean very lightly.  I had only a backpack with me, which consisted of one change of trousers, along with a couple changes of socks and underwear, a toiletries kit, shaver, laptop, cell phone, and various electronic charging accessories.  That was all.  A light winter jacket was also a key piece of gear.  I prefer military style trousers on trips like this, since they have cargo pockets, and tend to be more durable than other types of trousers. 

Besides allowing you to move quickly, a light load has practical benefits.  Ryan Air is known to do “spot inspections” of carry-on bag size, and if they deem your bag too big, you can expect to get hit with a $75 fee, which in most cases is more than the cost of a ticket.  So travel light, and keep things minimal. 

The Itinerary

I was traveling with my friend Zeljko, who I’ve known for many years.  He’s a lifelong resident of Europe, and is the most experienced traveler I know.  It was he, in fact, who planned out our entire itinerary.  On his shoulders fell the task of arranging the plane tickets, train tickets, museum tickets, AirBnB rental rooms, rental cars, and every other issue involved in travel planning.  And he did it all on his cell phone.  Without him, in fact, there would have been no trip at all.  Here is a breakdown of our actual itinerary:

Land in Amsterdam.  On the same day, see Van Gogh Museum, Rijksmuseum, Mauritshuis, Den Haag.

Fly to Venice.  Arrive at nearly midnight.  See old Venice in early morning hours. 

Take high-speed train to Florence.  See Santa Maria del Fiore.  Get tour of Brunelleschi’s dome.  See Uffizi Gallery.

Take train to Naples.  See Pompeii and Herculaneum.

Fly to Barcelona, Spain.  Arrive at night and walk by Sagrada Familia. 

Fly to Tenerife in the Spanish Canary Islands.  Rent car and visit Mount Teide National Park.

Fly to Madrid.  See Escorial and Prado Museum. 

Drive to Segovia and see aqueduct there.

Drive to Avila and explore the old city.

Drive to Toledo and see Catedral Primada, Alcazar, and San Martin’s Bridge.

Drive to Seville and see Alcazar, Cathedral of Seville, and Roman ruins at Italica.

Drive to Cordoba and see the Grand Mosque, Roman bridge, and a flamengo show.

Drive to Granada and see the Alhambra and Alcazaba.

Drive to Merida and see the aqueduct and Alcazaba.

Drive to Lisbon, Portugal, and see Elvas, Forte da Graca, and Evora.   

As you can see, this was an intense itinerary.  We were in constant movement. During the entire trip we must have walked 60 miles or so. But I’m glad we arranged it this way, because I had a great deal of “catching up” to do with regard to Europe’s cultural monuments. 

Photos and Telecom

You need a modern, reliable cell phone.  That should go without saying.  I used a Samsung S24+ and found it more than adequate for my needs.  Photos taken can easily be downloaded to a laptop or desktop, and you can easily buy a data roaming package from your service provider to allow you to use your phone while overseas.  Always take more photos than you think you’ll need.  You can always delete them later, but you may be surprised at how much even the incidental ones can mean to you weeks later.  A thin, light laptop is also a great piece of gear, but make sure you find a decent, shock-proof case for it, as your back will be constantly jostled and bumped. 

Food and Lodging

We bought food and drink at Lidl’s supermarkets when we found them.  It’s a great budget supermarket that stocks quality foods.  You can find everything you need for a balanced on-the-road diet:  meats, bread, cheese, fruits, fruit juices, etc.  We also ate in restaurants every now and then.  I had to try steak Florentine in Florence, and in Spain going to a tapas restaurant is mandatory.  I suppose I should say a few words here about the food in Europe.  My impression is that the overall quality of the food, and the prices, are much better in Europe than in America.  Europeans take their food seriously, in a way that we in America do not, to our detriment.  Anyone walking through the aisles of Lidl’s can see that prices are better, and the food quality higher, than in the United States.  It is hard to escape the conclusion that corporate greed is responsible for this.  The same thing could be said about live entertainment and alcohol prices in Europe.  We are paying too much, and getting too little.    

Lodging was at AirBnB apartments.  And we never had to meet with a proprietor, except one time at a “farm” style place in Portugal.  The owner sends you a key code to a lock box outside the front door of the apartment, from which you can retrieve the door key.  It’s simple and efficient.  When you’re running around constantly, it’s important to eat well and get enough rest.  When you’re seeing historical and cultural sites, you will be walking constantly.  Make sure you have a decent pair of shoes, preferably cushioned sneakers. 

General Impressions

It’s going to take me a few months to process everything I’ve seen.  There is only so much that human sense can process at any given time.  But I can give a few cursory observations at this stage.  Obesity rates are, of course, much lower in Europe than in the United States.  Dutch women have a fresh-faced beauty.  Chinese tourists are everywhere.  Spain was much more organized and efficient than I had anticipated.  One gets the sense that Spain has its act together, and is prepared for the modern era in a way that Italy and Portugal are not.  I loved the old walled city of Avila. The Spaniards also tend to be proud and prickly to some extent.  I think this is a good thing, as it reflects a degree of national pride that is conspicuously lacking in other countries.  Tenerife reminded me of the Portuguese Azores. I remember that Binter Canarias Airlines—the Spanish carrier we used to fly to Tenerife—was extremely pleasant and professional.  The flight attendants, which were all young women, even wear old-fashioned uniforms with scarves and hats.  Nice little things like this can really make a difference to a tired traveler.   

Italy is, of course, Italy, and is not going to change.  The Italians always manage to muddle through somehow.  Naples is just as chaotic, and as charismatic, as I remember it being in 2018.  Pompeii and Herculaneum were stunning archaeological sites.  The visitor is transported in time back to the daily lives of the Romans, in a way that cannot be done by reading books.  The olive groves—plantations, really—of Andalucia stretch nearly as far as the eye can see, as one drives through southern Spain.    

Ryanair is a true blessing.  For budget prices, you can go from country to country very efficiently.  They have speed travel down to a science.  Boarding and de-planing often happen at both the front and rear of the plane, a fact that speeds up travel times.  The flight crew are young, efficient, and have good attitudes.  But you need to know the game, too.  Ryanair’s definition of “carry on” bag size is smaller than the definition of other airlines, so be sure your bag really is small.    

There is a time and a place for this type of “blitz” traveling.  It may not be for everyone, but if you are in good health, there is no reason not to push yourself to your limits. If you find yourself with a specific amount of time available, and if you have a list of places you truly want to see, it may be the best option for you.  Do it. The longer you wait, the less likely you will be to take the plunge. But you will need to plan ahead meticulously.  We did not miss a single flight or train connection during our entire ten-day journey.  Luck had something to do with this, of course, but it was mostly attributable to scrupulous planning.  I can take no credit for this—it belongs entirely to my friend Zeljko, whose efforts made this an unforgettable experience.  

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